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The Maha Kumbh Mela: A Journey of Faith and Endurance

  A Gathering Like No Other The Maha Kumbh Mela is one of the most significant cultural festivals in the world. People from India and other countries come together for this important event, creating a special meeting of faith. The Sacred Tradition of Kumbh Mela Festivals have always played a significant role in Indian culture, celebrating everything from seasonal changes to religious wins. Diwali, Kojagari, and Rama-Vijay are important holidays, but the Kumbh Mela is the largest and most significant event. It occurs every 12 years in four sacred locations: Prayagraj, Haridwar, Ujjain, and Nashik. The Maha Kumbh Mela is currently taking place and is quite different from usual. It occurs only once every 144 years in Prayagraj. This event is considered the most important and sacred of all Kumbh Melas because the positions of the stars during this time are believed to offer the most significant spiritual rewards. The next Maha Kumbh Mela will take place in 2169. The Kumbh Mela occurs every 12 years at four sacred locations: Prayagraj, Haridwar, Ujjain, and Nashik. Astrology determines the best time to take a holy bath in rivers, believed to have unique spiritual energy. Smaller events include the Ardh Kumbh Mela, which occurs every six years in Haridwar and Prayagraj, and the Magh Mela, which occurs in Prayagraj in January and February. My Experience at the Maha Kumbh Mela Westerners, including me, have always been interested in the Kumbh Mela. Seeing such a significant event in person was scary and overwhelming. As my journey began, little did I know that this pilgrimage would be as much a test of endurance as an exploration of faith. The Chaotic Arrival in Prayagraj We flew from Lucknow and arrived in Prayagraj the day before the event began. The real trouble started when they arrived. Because of the millions of tourists, it became hard to book taxis online. We finally got a cab for the 19-kilometer ride to the Kumbh Canvas tent city, but it cost us a lot—5,000 rupees ($60)! It would typically cost $10-15. What should have been a short drive took three hours instead because thousands of tourists were walking, taking buses, or using crowded trains. We drove through the busy streets and saw temporary shops selling religious items and hot tea. The air smelled like incense, and cheerful tourists chatted, with soft religious songs playing in the background.   Tent City: A Temporary Metropolis After driving for hours in the crowd, we finally arrived at Kumbh Canvas, where our tent was. It was great to see the tents in the floodplains, with many temporary shelters helping tired tourists take a quick break. Tent City was a large area with many portable homes. It shone in the light of a nearly full moon, surrounded by heavy fog. We had reserved our accommodations six months before, thinking everything would go smoothly. Even though it’s advertised as a mid-range tent, it seemed more like an elaborate wedding tent—large but lacking some simple features. There were two small beds inside, and because it was cold, we quickly asked for extra blankets. The small sitting area, porch, and changing room made it pleasant, but the hot water that was promised (available only at certain times) never came. The American-style toilet was a nice addition but didn’t change the impression of bad management. We were served breakfast, lunch, and dinner but ate small portions. The food was too greasy and spicy for me. Optional trips were offered at a high price for those who wanted convenience. Tent City was a world within a world, catering to every budget. There were very fancy places with spas and yoga retreats that offered a lot of expensive comforts. These were quite different from essential places where people lived in simple shelters. Even though we chose a mid-range choice, it didn’t feel like one. The staff seemed inexperienced and confused, which added to the frustration. People were confused by basic questions—there was a sign at the door that said “Nature Clinic,” but no staff could explain what it meant. When help was needed, people looked confused and didn’t keep their promises. Although we were tired and irritated when we arrived, the experience was humbling. The Maha Kumbh Mela was more significant than anything we had ever seen. We checked in, had dinner, and went to sleep. The Importance of the Maha Kumbh Mela The Maha Kumbh Mela is a significant religious festival in India. During this time, millions gathered to participate in rituals and bathe in holy rivers. The Kumbh Mela is based on a Hindu tradition called Samudra Manthan. In this story, gods and devils stir the ocean to discover Amrit, a drink that gives people eternal life. According to legend, drops of nectar fell in four places: Prayagraj, Haridwar, Ujjain, and Nashik. These places are holy for the Kumbh Mela. Over 100 million people are expected to attend the Maha Kumbh Mela, the largest gathering of people in the world. Sadhus, saints, monks, and everyday worshippers gather there to seek moksha, which means freedom or release. The Kumbh Mela is an important cultural event where people from different languages, traditions, ideas, and values come together. At the Kumbh, you can watch exciting parades of Naga Sadhus covered in ash and do calm meditations by the river. Every experience there feels like stepping into another world. Final Thoughts: A Challenge of Faith and Endurance   The Maha Kumbh Mela was hard on my body but good for the spirit. The physical exhaustion, confusion, and organization problems were minor compared to what I had experienced during this time.   Would I do it again? I won’t be around for the next Maha Kumbh Mela in 2169.   Next: Day 1—The Maha Kumbh Mela: Immersed in the Sea of Humanity   Author and photo credit: Cristy Latest Post All Posts Blog The Maha Kumbh Mela: A Journey of Faith and Endurance   A Gathering Like No Other The Maha Kumbh Mela is one

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The Maha Kumbh Mela Day 1: Immersed in the Sea of Humanity

  First Day of the Maha Kumbh Mela   The official first day of the Maha Kumbh Mela began long before dawn. At 4 a.m., the sacred bathing ritual commenced, led by the Naga Sadhus—ash-covered ascetics who emerged in their wild, uninhibited glory, plunging into the icy waters of the Sangam. Waves of other sadhus, priests, and sects followed them, allowing the masses of devotees to enter. But instead of waking in the cold darkness to witness this grand spectacle, we chose to sleep in, saving our energy for the day ahead. After a modest breakfast, we decided to venture toward the Sangam, the confluence of the Ganges, Yamuna, and the mythical Saraswati River. Our tent was situated approximately 10 kilometers away from the Sangam, but the journey there was far from straightforward. To cross, we had to navigate a makeshift pontoon bridge, a one-kilometer stretch of temporary planks held together above the ever-flowing river. Although it was an engineering marvel, it was also unsettlingly unsteady beneath the weight of the millions of people already there. The Indian police controlled the crowd with discipline and calm, demonstrating extraordinary efficiency despite the vast throng. Although approximately four million people had assembled on the first day, there was still a sense of order amid the mayhem.   Crossing the Bridge People arrived in groups at each location, carrying flags from their hometowns. They moved in unison, resembling waves in a sea of faith. Ropes connected many families to ensure no one lost their way among the shifting flows of pilgrims. Others carried their belongings to accompany their ancestors to these sacred rivers. As an outsider, I attracted much interest and inquiry from those around me. But when I placed my palm over their hearts in respect, warmth replaced hesitance; when I met their eyes with a smile and greeted them with a simple “Ram Ram” or “Har Har Har Mahadev,” they responded with nods, blessings, and smiles that conveyed more than words ever could. Royal Bath in the Sangam While wandering through the Sangam area, I was amazed by the Maha Kumbh’s enormous size. Despite my mental preparation, the enormity was beyond my comprehension as I stood in the crowd. Although I am not Hindu, I have come here with an open heart and mind. By early afternoon, my husband, Bobby, decided to take a dip. Unlike the pilgrims who had come prepared, we did not bring towels or a change of clothes. We didn’t want to return to our tent, so we asked people if there was a place to get a towel. A few people told us to go beyond the Sangam area, where we could find a few vendors. After traveling two kilometers, we eventually found a vendor selling towels and undergarments. Bobby was ready for his first dip when we returned to the Sangam area. Devotees lined the banks, some deep in prayer, shouting, or just observing the constant influx of people into the hallowed waters. I waited, watching our belongings, and then Bobby emerged with a brilliant face and a blank yet deep expression. I also sensed that unseen thread binding everyone to something massive and ageless. We spent the rest of the day visiting ashrams, listening to chants and prayers, and savoring free meals on the streets. Seva, the attitude of giving, permeated every aspect of our day. Night fell, and we were exhausted, ready to return to Tent City. However, they had closed the bridge we had used earlier. Security had created a one-way exit route to prevent stampedes. As the crowd grew, the police imposed tight waves of movement as more pilgrims arrived by train and bus. The cops had us join the throng and head toward the one available bridge for return. That was the start of the actual trouble. Desperate to get across, we were all packed tightly, and our bodies crisscrossed. Each of us numbered in the thousands. I held onto Bobby’s hands tightly. He said not to let go. The sheer force of the mob pushing us ahead prevented us from moving forward on our own. At that moment, I felt like a refugee, ensnared and vulnerable to the overwhelming power of the human tide. Though there was no option but to keep on, it was overpowering and scary. We headed onward, step by step. We had traveled more than 25 kilometers that day, and our legs felt heavy like lead. When we finally returned to the Tent City, we found our sector and crashed into our tent. We were worn out. Our minds continued to whirl from what we had just experienced, and every muscle in our bodies hurt. The Maha Kumbh Mela was a force, not only a gathering. It tested faith, perseverance, and patience quite literally. And we had just started. Next: Day 2—Our Journey Beyond the Sangam   Author and photo credit: Cristy Latest Post All Posts Blog The Maha Kumbh Mela Day 1: Immersed in the Sea of Humanity The official first day of the Maha Kumbh Mela began long before dawn. At 4 a.m., the sacred bathing ritual… The Maha Kumbh Mela Day 2: Our Journey Beyond the Sangam   The Nearest Sangam Following our strenuous walk of over 25 kilometers the previous day, every muscle in our legs… The Maha Kumbh Mela Day 2: A Sacred Dip and A Holy Parade   An Unforgettable Experience at the Maha Kumbh Mela   Reaching the Sangam The Sangam is the revered junction of… Serendipity in Jaipur: A Journey Back in Time   My Journey Back in Time I took the night bus from Udaipur to Jaipur, leaving behind the city’s shimmering… Jaipur: A City of Temples, Thalis, and Timeless Chaos   Temples, Thalis, and Timeless Chaos When we arrived in Jaipur, the Pink City, it felt like stepping into a… Savoring Jaipur: The Ultimate Rajasthani Thali Experience Exploring Jaipur’s Best Thali Experiences Amid Jaipur’s bustling streets and majestic palaces, the thali custom unites the

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The Maha Kumbh Mela Day 2: Our Journey Beyond the Sangam

  The Nearest Sangam Following our strenuous walk of over 25 kilometers the previous day, every muscle in our legs resisted further movement. We opted to rest today—at least, that was the intention. After breakfast, we decided to slow down. The Sangam nearest our camp was still three kilometers away, and the prospect of another lengthy hike didn’t seem doable. I begged my husband, Bobby, to find an e-rickshaw to save me from the anguish of walking. Most other guests had joined guided tours and were readily picked up outside their tents. We did, however, venture beyond the tent city gates in search of a ride. Finding a Guide We soon spotted an e-rickshaw driver, but his fare was tantamount to extortion. I had no patience for the exaggerated ‘tourist price’ game and refused to participate. As we were about to give up and start walking, a young man approached us. “I can give you a ride on my motorcycle,” he told us. My name is Vikas, and I’m a local guide. He approached us with genuine interest as we tried to figure out the best way to get to Sangam. Then he inquired, “What are you doing today?” Bobby responded, “We just want to reach the nearest Sangam without crossing the bridge, take a quick dip, and then return to our tent.” Vikas lifted his eyebrow. “That’s it?” he inquired, evidently unimpressed. With a knowing smile, he leaned in slightly. “Have you seen where the sadhus, the revered ascetics, live? Have you witnessed their procession? Have you encountered the spiritual energy at the Sangam, the meeting point of the Ganges, Yamuna, and Saraswati rivers, the site of discovering the Maha Kumbh?” Bobby and I exchanged glances, and I whispered, “OK, I want to do this. I came here hoping to gain as much experience as possible. I do not mind if my legs hurt; I want to do it.” We told Vikas that we tried, but the region was rather large. To prevent getting lost, we stuck to the main paths and usually observed people coming and taking a dip. Vikas laughed and shook his head. “You’ve just begun,” he said. “The true Maha Kumbh isn’t just at the Sangam; it’s found in the sadhus’ camps and quiet places of worship where time seems to have stopped for hundreds of years. That’s where the energy of this place stands out.” His words made us curious. The day before, we had been moving through a large crowd, trying to see and understand everything around us. Amid everything, we didn’t realize that we had overlooked the true essence of the festival—the areas where spiritual people and seekers came together for their special ceremonies, away from the busy swimming spots. Noticing our uncertainty, Vikas smiled. “I can take you. I promise no long walks.” Then he made us an offer we couldn’t refuse. I will take you on my motorcycle as your guide for a modest fee. You’ll be able to see the sadhus in person, receive their blessings, see the parade, and take a holy bath without walking an additional 25 kilometers. To clarify, this was neither a lie nor the truth. We couldn’t take the motorcycle across the bridge and still walked over 25 kilometers that day! No regrets. We saw what we came here for. We glanced at each other, exhausted from the day before but energized by the thought. We had come to experience Maha Kumbh beyond the surface and Sangam. “You got a deal,” Bobby replied to Vikas. And with that, we climbed on the back of his motorcycle to the first stop. Not far from where we started, we had to leave the bike before crossing the bridge. Then, we walked into the heart of Kumbh. Our “rest” day took a surprising turn! Among the Sadhus, Blessed by Sadhus Vikas guided us through the busy streets, skillfully dodging crowds of worshippers until we reached where the naga sadhus, the respected ascetics covered in ash, had set up their camps. The mood changed suddenly. We felt like we had entered a different world, one in which time didn’t matter and the line between the physical and spiritual had faded. As we strolled around their neighborhood, we sensed a strong feeling of commitment and long-standing traditions. Chants filled the air, moving up and down like an old hymn. The aroma of incense and the earthy scent of wood fires enveloped us like a strong fragrance. All around me, people were moving—bare-chested monks wearing rudraksha beads, covered in ash, deep in their meditation and prayers. Others danced joyfully to the beat of the drums, caught up in the music, their tangled hair moving around. Sadhus sat with their legs crossed in their blankets, looking thoughtful with their eyes staring at you. Some stayed still, like statues, as if they had moved beyond worldly distractions. Others interacted with the pilgrims, asking for blessings, mumbling prayers, touching their foreheads, or just nodding to show they were listening. As I walked by, many sadhus looked at me with interest, possibly wondering why I, a stranger to them, was there. There was no anger, just acceptance. They approached me, waved at me to come to them, marked my face with holy ash, sprayed me with blessed water, and spoke words of blessing. A warm sense of calm and connection washed over me as if I were part of something ancient and timeless. Each sadhu showed their spiritual practice uniquely and fascinatingly. One sat still with his arm raised, showing off his years of deep thought. His arm was slender and feeble, and his fingers curved like a rigid claw. Another group gathered around a fire, taking heavy puffs from clay pipes, breathing out thick clouds of marijuana smoke, their eyes glassy but calm. A sadhu with a large, messy beard wore a live bird on his head. His intense stare seemed to extend beyond as the crowd watched him closely. Another, more

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The Maha Kumbh Mela Day 2: A Sacred Dip and A Holy Parade

  An Unforgettable Experience at the Maha Kumbh Mela   Reaching the Sangam The Sangam is the revered junction of three Indian rivers: the Ganges (Ganga), Yamuna, and the fabled Saraswati. Considered one of the holiest locations in Hinduism, this point is found at Prayagraj (previously Allahabad), Uttar Pradesh. Particularly during the Kumbh Mela, pilgrims assemble here to do a ceremonial bath in the waters, which is said to cleanse the soul and atone for sins. Viewed as both a physical gathering of rivers and a spiritual union representing the blending of earthly and celestial powers, the confluence is. Though not evident, the Saraswati River is thought to run underground and be present at the Sangam. Photo Credit: Vikas The Sacred Dip Hundreds of pilgrims crowded the banks of the Sangam, some preparing for their dip, others emerging from the sacred waters, faces glowing with reverence. Photo Credit: Vikas This was the most auspicious day of the Maha Kumbh, the holiest moment to cleanse one’s soul. Bobby turned to me, grinning. “If you want to go to heaven with me, you must go in too.” I was somewhat prepared, thinking I didn’t have to do this and could always back out. Well, why not? I had nothing to lose. Bobby and Vikas went first. Then he went to get me because he knew I would not go underwater. I waded into the cold waters of the Sangam, shivering as the river embraced me. At first, I resisted going fully under—I hadn’t planned on soaking my hair. But Bobby laughed, shaking his head. “No half-dipping! You have to go all the way.” And so I did. As soon as I went underwater, something changed. It felt like the river was cleaning away the dirt and tiredness from the last two days and cleansing something more profound—something you can’t see—but it felt real. I came up for air, breathing in the cold, but I felt energized instead of uncomfortable. At that moment, I felt completely free with my wet hair on my face and no makeup. A Religious Parade After putting on dry clothes, we explored again, encountering more sadhus and receiving more blessings. In the afternoon, after their traditional bath, we saw a procession. Vikas said, “The parade, after the sadhus have bathed, they return to their tents, riding a float or motorcade decorated with colorful garlands, lights, and beautiful ornaments.” We quickly moved to find a place to watch as the sadhus, who had just bathed and received blessings, started their big parade through the city. The procession at the Maha Kumbh Mela was an unbelievable sight, combining spirituality, custom, and stunning visuals. They came in waves—the saddhus, some dressed in saffron robes, others completely bare, their bodies adorned only with beads and ashes. They had a powerful draw. Some people walked with tridents, looking determined and strong. Others danced happily; their laughter filled the air. The parade featured cultural and folk aspects. Musicians played traditional instruments, dancers showcased kathak and Bharatanatyam, and performers dressed as Hindu gods and goddesses on stilts. Some floats had big conch shells that blew at times, creating deep sounds that resonated through the crowd. As the floats moved through the crowd of worshippers, flower petals fell from above, and people shouted “Har Har Mahadev” and “Jai Ganga Maiya.” The Maha Kumbh Mela was filled with faith, devotion, and joy. It was a surreal, divine spectacle—a once-in-a-lifetime vision of faith in action. Standing there, I realized my insignificance in the overall scheme of things. This event has been going on for thousands of years, showing a continuous commitment. I felt like a small part of history, watching it happen around me. Once again, what we thought would be an “easy day” was a long and challenging experience. The intended three-kilometer journey became a competitive event. As night came, we felt cold and exhausted. But despite the aches and fatigue, my heart was whole. The Journey Back We had planned for a short, restful day. Instead, we had unknowingly walked another 25+ kilometers. By the time we reached our tent, the cold had settled into our bones, and exhaustion weighed down our limbs. We collapsed onto our cots, too worn out to even speak. But despite the aching feet, soreness, and sheer physical exhaustion, I felt deeply, profoundly grateful. One day, I’ll tell my grandchildren about this. About how I took a sacred dip in the Sangam, was blessed by sadhus, and witnessed a holy procession. And for a fleeting moment, I was one with the universe. Leaving the Maha Kumbh Mela Our guide, Vikas, who has since become a good friend, continues to send us photos from the event, offering a glimpse into its overwhelming scale. Here’s a picture of Vikas I took, blessed by priests. When we left, the reality on the ground remained intense. The borders were closed to enter Prayagraj, trains and buses were halted, and millions of people were stranded, desperately trying to make their way to this once-in-a-lifetime spiritual gathering. The event continues until February 26, 2025, drawing more people daily into its massive, sacred embrace. Photos below, credit: Vikas     Back to the Timeless India.      Author and photo credit: Cristy Latest Post All Posts Blog The Maha Kumbh Mela Day 2: Our Journey Beyond the Sangam   The Nearest Sangam Following our strenuous walk of over 25 kilometers the previous day, every muscle in our legs… The Maha Kumbh Mela Day 2: A Sacred Dip and A Holy Parade An Unforgettable Experience at the Maha Kumbh Mela Reaching the Sangam The Sangam is the revered junction of three Indian… Serendipity in Jaipur: A Journey Back in Time   My Journey Back in Time I took the night bus from Udaipur to Jaipur, leaving behind the city’s shimmering… Jaipur: A City of Temples, Thalis, and Timeless Chaos   Temples, Thalis, and Timeless Chaos When we arrived in Jaipur, the Pink City, it felt like stepping into

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Serendipity in Jaipur: A Journey Back in Time

  My Journey Back in Time I took the night bus from Udaipur to Jaipur, leaving behind the city’s shimmering lakes as we rolled onto the dark highway. The journey was filled with sleep, jolts from bumpy roads, and occasional stops at roadside dhabas (restaurants), where truck drivers huddled around fires, sipping hot chai. Wrapped in a blanket, I slept through the night. By 10 a.m., I arrived in Jaipur for the first time on a clear, cold winter morning. Traveling from city to city without plans was the ultimate freedom in experiencing India. I arrived with no reservations or itinerary—just curiosity and a willingness to see where the journey took me. Some places instantly captivate me, drawing me in with their stories, streets, and unspoken magic. Other areas, while beautiful, don’t resonate in the same way. And that’s the beauty of traveling like this—there’s no pressure, no commitments, just the freedom to wander, explore, and linger where it feels right. The only plan is to keep moving until something tells me to stop! Along the way, I encountered numerous people—locals and travelers, mostly backpackers—each adding a narrative to my trip. Some friendships lasted a few hours, others days, and a lifetime. Knowing our paths might never cross again, we ate, laughed, and shared travel stories. Still, this travel, in its raw form—a never-ending flow of movement and connection—is a testament to the friendliness of human interaction. There were no expectations or tearful goodbyes. This is the true essence of travel: not following a checklist or a strict schedule but simply being present and allowing the adventure to unfold as it will. India showed me that the best strategy is sometimes none, even with all its charm and mayhem. I stepped off the bus with a backpack and no real plan except for a vague idea of finding a place called Evergreen, where I planned to stay while in Jaipur. Arriving by Bus Madness started the minute I stepped off the bus in Jaipur. I had grown accustomed to handling conflict and dealing with the locals by now. Touts crowded like bees, yelling over each other and attempting to sell me anything—an autorickshaw ride, a guesthouse, a day trip, anything. It was frightening and unpleasant to deal with early in the morning. But I ignored them! Evergreen was where backpackers camped—at least, that was a suggestion in the Lonely Planet guidebook! I had heard about it from Elise, a Dutch backpacker I had met earlier on my trip. “Come to Jaipur, and I will be staying at Evergreen,” she had advised. “I’ll introduce you to my friends!” But I knew she had probably left by now; weeks had passed since I last saw her. On my way to Evergreen, I spotted Elise as I wandered the labyrinth of streets, avoiding rickshaws and street merchants. She came toward me with effortless elegance. “You made it!” she remarked. “I will see you later at Evergreen.” I recall little about my first visit to Jaipur. Not how one remembers sites or an itinerary. I remember emotions. I remember walking around the Pink City and feeling the sandstone buildings sparkle in the midday sun. Entering the bazaars, the air smells earthy from the streets, mixed with spices, tea, and incense. I remember sitting in Evergreen’s courtyard, surrounded by backpackers, sharing stories of our travels through India. When Elise returned to Evergreen, she introduced me to her friends. I remember meeting GD and Fahim first, then Sunny and Bobby later. While Fahim was quiet and focused, GD was friendly and bursting with stories. We talked about travel, Jaipur, and life itself. Looking back, I remember the feeling—especially with Bobby—but not many specifics of what happened. There was something more profound than words, an unconscious connection that existed. On that journey, I never anticipated more than fleeting friendships; nevertheless, life had other plans, showing me the beauty of unexpected connections. This is My Story of India! An accurate tale of eating, praying, and finding love when you least expected it. What began as an uncertain journey, with no clear plan and only an open heart filled with adventure, led me to something far greater than I could have imagined. India was more than just a place I visited; it became a pivotal moment in my life. At the time, I didn’t realize the significance of the connection. It was effortless and natural—two strangers brought together by fate in a city with two million people (1996).  Something deeper took root in a whirlwind of shared stories, late-night conversations, and spontaneous adventures. Less than a year later, Bobby and I were married, and what started as a chance encounter became the foundation of a lifetime together, a testament to the transformative power of travel. And now, almost 28 years later, we are still together. Through every high and low, every twist and turn, that moment in India remains the beginning of a story that never stopped unfolding. What was once a leap of faith turned into a lifetime of love— Proving that the most unexpected journeys sometimes lead us exactly where we are meant to be. Since that first visit, I have returned to Jaipur several times, but those trips were different. We centered our trips around family, bringing our kids to visit family and sharing glimpses of the city. Those visits evoked feelings of nostalgia and responsibility, a stark contrast to the carefree wandering of my early travels. Neal’s first visit to India at 6 months old. With Neal and Nathan in 2007. Chai drinkers in training! Now, 17 years later, I am back again. This time, it’s different. There are no obligations and no hurried schedules. My husband and I are rediscovering Jaipur together, walking through its bustling streets and taking in its chaos and charm. The city has changed—grown and modernized—but it remains the same in many ways. India Story:   Then: When Plans Fall Apart: Embracing the Unknown in India   Now:  Jaipur:

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Jaipur: A City of Temples, Thalis, and Timeless Chaos

  Temples, Thalis, and Timeless Chaos When we arrived in Jaipur, the Pink City, it felt like stepping into a world where the past and present were intertwined. The grandeur of the palaces and forts stood tall against the backdrop of chaotic and busy streets, where rickshaws weaved through traffic, cows lounged in the middle of the road, and street vendors shouted their wares. But beyond the daily turmoil of navigating Jaipur, what struck me most was its deep spiritual essence—the city is home to countless temples, each with its charm, history, and devoted following. Temples of Jaipur: Finding Peace Amidst the Chaos   You will find a temple on about every block as you stroll the crowded streets. The city boasts many temples, which provide a serene setting for prayer, meditation, and dedication. For Hindus, visiting a temple is a means of showing allegiance and connecting with the Almighty. This habit deepens one’s relationship with the gods, encourages inner tranquility, and enables the soul to follow what is good.   There are a few temples in Jaipur worth visiting.   Found in the City Palace, the Govind Dev Ji Temple honors Lord Krishna. People say the picture here quite closely resembles Krishna’s earthly appearance. The temple was dedicated, particularly in the early aarti, when I sensed the strong spirit of individuals gathered for prayer. Built from immaculate white marble, this modern but spiritually significant temple honors Lord Vishnu and Goddess Lakshmi. The tranquil surroundings and finely crafted sculptures provided a quiet respite during my travels. On a little hill, Moti Dungri Temple honors Lord Ganesha. Many come here seeking guidance in conquering obstacles. Rising in the Aravalli hills, this ancient site is known as Galtaji Temple, also known as the Monkey Temple. Its natural springs and breathtaking scenery made it seem magical. Less well-known but as magnificent is the Kalki Temple, which celebrates Lord Kalki, supposedly the tenth manifestation of the god Vishnu. As we strolled about Jaipur, we could hear priests chanting, temple bells ringing, and incense smoke billowing. This encounter inspired a great spiritual feeling. These temples were part of the city’s essence, offering a peaceful area in the middle of the bustle and a deep link to the divine—not only places to pray. Seeing these temples is not to be missed. Next—Savoring Jaipur: The Ultimate Rajasthani Thali Experience   Author and photo credit: Cristy Latest Post All Posts Blog Serendipity in Jaipur: A Journey Back in Time   My Journey Back in Time I took the night bus from Udaipur to Jaipur, leaving behind the city’s shimmering… Jaipur: A City of Temples, Thalis, and Timeless Chaos   Temples, Thalis, and Timeless Chaos When we arrived in Jaipur, the Pink City, it felt like stepping into a… Savoring Jaipur: The Ultimate Rajasthani Thali Experience Exploring Jaipur’s Best Thali Experiences Amid Jaipur’s bustling streets and majestic palaces, the thali custom unites the essence of Rajasthan’s… Daily Turmoil: The Unchanging, Timeless Chaos of Jaipur Despite Jaipur’s advancements, luxury malls, and modern conveniences, Jaipur still clung to its age-old chaos. Crossing the Street Crossing the… When Plans Fall Apart: Embracing the Unknown in India My Unplanned Trip to India I had planned an ambitious trip to five countries with a coworker I barely knew.… Almost Stranded in Bengaluru: An Unexpected Act of Kindness No Hotel Reservations I landed in Bengaluru at about 6 p.m. and had no hotel reservations for the night. As… An Unexpected Trip to Puttaparthi – A Spiritual Curiosity A Detour to Puttaparthi The Australian couple I met last night at Mr. Matthai’s house, Joe and Amy, make an… A Night Train to Bijapur: A Journey of Unexpected Connections Railway Station I ran as fast as I could to the Puttaparthi Railway Station. My first thought was to take… Udaipur: The City of Lakes and Serenity Udaipur, The White City I arrived at Udaipur, the City of Lakes, from the golden deserts of Jaisalmer. The difference… Facebook Instagram

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Savoring Jaipur: The Ultimate Rajasthani Thali Experience

Exploring Jaipur’s Best Thali Experiences Amid Jaipur’s bustling streets and majestic palaces, the thali custom unites the essence of Rajasthan’s rich culture and hospitality. One of my biggest pleasures was discovering the range of thalis available in Jaipur. This gastronomic adventure felt as much like a celebration as a meal, and it was a perfect way to spend time between our temple visits and wandering the city streets. The Hindi word “thali” means “plate.”  A thali typically has several tiny bowls of these foods and multiple refills (particularly in Rajasthan), so you never go hungry. It is a balanced meal that exhibits Indian cuisine’s diversity and complexity. Rajasthani thalis showcase the state’s culture and hospitality. This hearty, savory feast features many dishes that reflect the region’s rich and colorful spices. The thali balances salty, spicy, acidic, and sweet flavors. A Rajasthani thali often includes:   Dal Baati Churma is the star of the Rajasthani thali. Baatis are baked wheat buns served with dal (lentils) and churma, a sweet, crumbly concoction of crushed baatis, ghee, and sugar. It is a must-try, rich, and filling mix. Gatte ki Sabzi: A spicy curry made from gram flour dumplings. The thali gets a peculiar texture from this savory dish. Ker Sangri is a Rajasthani meal made with wild berries and beans from the arid desert region. This acidic side dish is seasoned with dry seasonings. Laal Maas: Spicy lamb or mutton curry. The red chili-based gravy gives it a rich, smoky flavor. A Rajasthani tradition, but the heat is too much for some! Ghevar is a delicious delicacy of flour, sugar syrup, and ghee, commonly eaten during festivals. Crispy, sweet, and the perfect finale to a delightful dinner. Roti or Paratha: Warm, ghee-drenched rotis or parathas are served in numerous cuisines. Kadhi is a yogurt-based curry with gram flour, turmeric, and other spices. Its refreshing flavor balances the spices’ spiciness. Chutneys and Pickles: Rajasthani thalis typically have a variety of chutneys and pickles, including garlic or mango pickle, for a spicy kick. Rice: Plain or cumin-flavored jeera rice provides a gentle base for spicy foods. Traditional Rajasthani thalis are served on massive plates, and the range of flavors—from spicy to sweet—makes every taste unique. They are also a meal that celebrates Rajasthan’s rich flavors and traditions. Constant refills and large dishes show the state’s hospitality. Sri Motu Ram Prasadam   The trip started at Sri Motu Ram Prasadam, which offered Jaipur’s largest and most extravagant thali. Presented on a big, shiny metal plate, the thali appeared as a never-ending collection of bowls, each containing a unique treasure of Rajasthani cuisine. If you order the biggest thali on the menu, call and inform them beforehand.  It takes 45 minutes to prepare. And this is not the biggest thali; you need at least 10 people in your group for the biggest thali! Here, we had the classic dal baati churma—piping hot baatis with a dab of ghee accompanied by thick dal and a sweet, crumbly churma. With its subtle mix of spices, the chutney gave the gatte ki sabzi a spicy kick. With each bite, the soft, warm roti—glued with ghee—melted on my lips and guaranteed never-ending refills. This thali was more than simply food; it was a sensory extravaganza honoring the kind hospitality of Rajasthan.   Mohan Mahal at Leela Palace   The Mohan Mahal transformed the thali into a royal occasion, offering a more refined experience. Here, the grandeur of the surroundings matched the richness of the cuisine. The five-star version of a Rajasthani thali, albeit with a sophisticated touch, presented a blend of traditional cuisine. While the gatte ki sabzi was served in intricate arrangements, highlighting the chef’s culinary expertise, dishes like dal baati churma were garnished beautifully. The thali included the always-famous Dhania Patta Paneer and Laal Maas, a hot red meat dish. This thali combined Rajasthan’s tastes with a grace suited for its opulent surroundings. Make sure you make a reservation. A Vegetarian Thali A Non-Vegetarian Thali The non-vegetarian thali is similar to the vegetarian thali except for additional dishes like chicken and mutton. Inside the Mohan Mahal     More Thalis   But the street markets of Jaipur presented a different sort of thali—humble yet incredibly real. Food sellers presented thalis at little booths in the energetic anarchy of the bazaars, each capturing the local taste and friendliness of the people. Despite lacking the grandeur of fine dining restaurants, these establishments embodied the city’s essence. A basic dal, sabzi, and a couple of rotis accompanied by a side of spicy chutneys and a spoonful of kadhi were enough to satiate the heart and the appetite. Sitting on little stools surrounded by the bustle of Jaipur at these times, I developed a close relationship with Rajasthani cuisine and culture. Still, the most intimate and valuable thali experience occurred at a home-cooked dinner in a neighborhood kitchen. They served this thali on modest dining tables, not at upscale hotels or restaurants. Though simple, the dishes exuded love and attention. The sabzi—whether a seasonal vegetable or a spiced aloo-gobi—was fresh and tasty; the rotis were soft, and the dal was rich and consoling. Made from scratch and shared with one of our dear friends. This thali reminded me that Rajasthani cuisine is more about tradition, love, and hospitality than mere ingredients. The Thali functions as a microcosm of Rajasthan itself. This encounter honors the state’s richness in terms of its history and culture as much as its cuisine. Every thali, whether from the grandeur of a temple kitchen or the coziness of a neighborhood house, tells a story. The variety of tastes reflects the soul, from the spicy laal maas to the creamy dal baati churma. Thali is my favorite type of Indian food because it allows me to enjoy many different tastes simultaneously. It is served in a range of little bowls, each loaded with a different dish. You get to taste a bit of everything—savory curries, spicy chutneys, relaxing dals,

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Daily Turmoil: The Unchanging, Timeless Chaos of Jaipur

Despite Jaipur’s advancements, luxury malls, and modern conveniences, Jaipur still clung to its age-old chaos. Crossing the Street Crossing the street in Jaipur is not for the faint-hearted. There are no actual rules—just instincts and divine intervention. It took me a week to acclimate, but having my husband as a shield also worked. There were no actual pedestrian crossings—just an unspoken rule: you had to walk confidently, pray, and hope that the sea of motorbikes, rickshaws, and cows would somehow see you coming. And somehow—it does. Most of the time! It felt like a survival game, one where hesitation could mean defeat.   Riding an Uber, a Taxi, and an Autorickshaw Then came riding the Uber—a task that should have been simple but turned into an unpredictable adventure. Some drivers abruptly canceled their rides, others refused to switch on the air conditioning, and some became so chatty that they resembled tour guides rather than drivers. “You are from America?” one asked me excitedly. “Why are you here? America is better!” And let me tell you—they are the most maniacal drivers! That is a story I will save for another time.   Dealing with the Locals: Time is an Illusion If I quickly learned one thing, it was that time in Jaipur operates on its own rhythm—it is flexible, unpredictable, and utterly detached from any fixed schedule. Someone tells you they’ll be there in five minutes? That could mean twenty. Maybe an hour. Maybe never. And if you call to check, you’ll hear the ever-reassuring, “I’m just reaching,” which could mean they haven’t even left yet. They say yes when they mean no, they say no problem when there’s a problem, and they tell you what you want to hear, even if it isn’t true—but it’s not a lie, either. It’s just the Indian way! Our Uber driver said he knew exactly where our hotel was, so we trusted him. Thirty minutes later, we were in a random alley with no hotel. “Are we close?” I asked. He nodded enthusiastically, “Yes, yes, very close!”  We drove for another forty minutes.   Despite their constant hurry, they consistently arrive late. You eventually learn to adapt to changing circumstances. You stop expecting things to be on time, waiting for straightforward answers, and surrender! Negotiating with a rickshaw driver or a vendor is an art form—a delicate dance where both sides pretend to be entirely baffled by the other’s price. ‘500 rupees? Too much!’ you say, shaking your head. They scoffs. “Very far, madam! Special price for you: 450!” Eventually, you settle for something in between, knowing that a local would’ve paid half. Strangely, that’s part of India’s charm—the unpredictability, the contradictions, the way everything feels like it’s on the verge of collapse—but somehow, miraculously, it all works out. India doesn’t adapt to you—you adapt to India.   You stop expecting logic, stop fighting the chaos, and just let it sweep you up. And that’s when India truly reveals itself—not as a city to be controlled but as an experience to be embraced. Either you love it, or you don’t! There’s no in-between!   Jaipur is a city where you lose yourself in temples, stuff yourself with thalis, risk your life crossing the street, and accept that time, logic, and reason are merely suggestions. As we left the city, I realized Jaipur hadn’t changed much. But maybe, just maybe, it had changed me. More on Things to Do and See in Jaipur.   Author and photo credit: Cristy Latest Post All Posts Blog Serendipity in Jaipur: A Journey Back in Time   My Journey Back in Time I took the night bus from Udaipur to Jaipur, leaving behind the city’s shimmering… Jaipur: A City of Temples, Thalis, and Timeless Chaos   Temples, Thalis, and Timeless Chaos When we arrived in Jaipur, the Pink City, it felt like stepping into a… Savoring Jaipur: The Ultimate Rajasthani Thali Experience Exploring Jaipur’s Best Thali Experiences Amid Jaipur’s bustling streets and majestic palaces, the thali custom unites the essence of Rajasthan’s… Daily Turmoil: The Unchanging, Timeless Chaos of Jaipur Despite Jaipur’s advancements, luxury malls, and modern conveniences, Jaipur still clung to its age-old chaos. Crossing the Street Crossing the… When Plans Fall Apart: Embracing the Unknown in India My Unplanned Trip to India I had planned an ambitious trip to five countries with a coworker I barely knew.… Almost Stranded in Bengaluru: An Unexpected Act of Kindness No Hotel Reservations I landed in Bengaluru at about 6 p.m. and had no hotel reservations for the night. As… An Unexpected Trip to Puttaparthi – A Spiritual Curiosity A Detour to Puttaparthi The Australian couple I met last night at Mr. Matthai’s house, Joe and Amy, make an… A Night Train to Bijapur: A Journey of Unexpected Connections Railway Station I ran as fast as I could to the Puttaparthi Railway Station. My first thought was to take… Udaipur: The City of Lakes and Serenity Udaipur, The White City I arrived at Udaipur, the City of Lakes, from the golden deserts of Jaisalmer. The difference… Facebook Instagram

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When Plans Fall Apart: Embracing the Unknown in India

My Unplanned Trip to India I had planned an ambitious trip to five countries with a coworker I barely knew. We bought a round-the-world ticket to see Japan, Vietnam, Nepal, India, and Thailand. She oversaw our stay in Japan, arranging accommodations with her foster family, and used her previous experiences to plan our time in India. However, following our time in Japan, it became evident that we were unsuitable travel partners. Despite this, we continued our trip to Vietnam and Nepal. Finally, at the end of our Nepal trek, we parted ways. This journey did not go as I had planned. I was alone in Kathmandu for a few more days, struggling to decide what to do next. Traveling alone was not new to me, but India was uncharted territory. I had done little research and was mentally unprepared. Nonetheless, I followed my original plan and continued the trip to India. A quick call to a friend in the United States helped me book a flight to Goa, where I hoped to relax on the beach and plan the rest of my adventure. Arriving in New Delhi Two days later, I boarded a plane to New Delhi with no guidebook or maps—only a one-way ticket and an open mind! In 2025, we now have smartphones, GPS, and social media to navigate the world. Back then, we utilized payphones; there was no internet, Google Maps, or quick connections. Travel, in its simplest form, was an unforgettable and thrilling experience. When I arrived at Indira Gandhi International Airport, my first stop was at the gift shop, where I picked up a Lonely Planet guidebook and an India map. Because I traveled light—only a few clothing items, trinkets, and my camera—I breezed through customs and stepped outside into a sea of vivid hues. The airport’s exit evoked a sensory explosion. Women dressed in beautiful saris, men in gorgeous turbans, and uniformed greeters await their guests. My friend had arranged for a car and driver for me, and I saw him holding a sign bearing my name. His kind smile immediately made me feel at ease. Before I knew it, he was putting my bag in the trunk of a black Hindustan Ambassador. Unfortunately, in my excitement, I forgot to photograph him with the automobile. The trip from the airport was chaotic yet captivating. The streets were alive with activity, with auto-rickshaws zipping through traffic alongside multicolored taxis and honking cars. Vehicles darted in and out of lanes with no discernible rhythm, and horns blared as continual background music. Buses rushed by while entire families—sometimes five people—sat precariously atop single motorcycles. Then, amidst the current chaos, I noticed elephants and camels gracefully ambling along the highway as if transported from another era. New Delhi’s airport was even busier in 2025. On our recent trip to India, although we only had to drive three kilometers to leave the airport, a single red light held us up for more than an hour. During our drive to the travel agency, I realized that the vehicle ride itself had been my first true insight into the spirit of India—vibrant, chaotic, and full of unexpected adventure. And I had only been in India for one hour. Travel Agency The driver led me across the busy market streets to a small, cramped office. Inside, an ancient computer and heaps of documents occupied the space. I handed her my passport and explained that I must fly to Goa. The agent frowned. “I apologize, but we have full flights to Goa for the next two weeks!” She looked at me momentarily before offering an alternative: “I can arrange your flight to Bangalore. From there, board the bus to Goa. It’s a long journey, but it’s the best option.” A bus? The thought unsettled me. Traveling by bus in an unfamiliar nation seemed intimidating, but perhaps this was the adventure I had been looking for. “Let’s do it,” I responded, unsure of what was ahead. After I acquired my ticket, my driver took me for a quick lunch before returning to the airport for my 3 p.m. departure to Bangalore. And with that, my adventure began! Off to Bengaluru!   Author and photo credit: Cristy Latest Post All Posts Blog Almost Stranded in Bengaluru: An Unexpected Act of Kindness No Hotel Reservations I landed in Bengaluru at about 6 p.m. and had no hotel reservations for the night. As… An Unexpected Trip to Puttaparthi – A Spiritual Curiosity A Detour to Puttaparthi The Australian couple I met last night at Mr. Matthai’s house, Joe and Amy, make an… A Night Train to Bijapur: A Journey of Unexpected Connections Railway Station I ran as fast as I could to the Puttaparthi Railway Station. My first thought was to take… Udaipur: The City of Lakes and Serenity Udaipur, The White City I arrived at Udaipur, the City of Lakes, from the golden deserts of Jaisalmer. The difference… When Plans Fall Apart: Embracing the Unknown in India My Unplanned Trip to India I had planned an ambitious trip to five countries with a coworker I barely knew.… Riding Through Time: A Camel Safari in Jaisalmer The Golden City Rajasthan is a land of contrasts, with each city uniquely expressing the Thar Desert’s vast and changing… Pushkar Fair: A Fever Dream of Colors and Chaos Bus to Pushkar GD, my new friend, took me to the Pushkar Fair. From Jaipur, an excursion right unto itself,… Varanasi at Dawn: A Journey Through Time With my film camera in hand, I strolled along the ghats in Varanasi at the break of dawn, capturing the… A Wet but Unforgettable Wagah Border Experience Long on our agenda was visiting the well-known Wagah Border, the crossing between India and Pakistan. We had much discussed… Facebook Instagram

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Almost Stranded in Bengaluru: An Unexpected Act of Kindness

No Hotel Reservations I landed in Bengaluru at about 6 p.m. and had no hotel reservations for the night. As reality set in, I found the payphone and started phoning hostels, budget hotels, and even five-star hotels—only to get the same response: they were all fully booked for the next seven days. Only then did I discover the Miss World Pageant was in town, taking up every available space. I observed two couples in a similar situation at the airport, looking for a place to stay. As the terminal emptied, we were among the few who remained. Overhearing their chat, I approached them and inquired whether they had had any success. With no solutions in sight, the three of us proceeded to plan our following actions together. I noticed a middle-aged man observing us in the distance as we spoke. He wore a perfectly fitted suit and had a subdued power that suited someone from executive circles. A few moments later, he walked over to us and spoke calmly. A Perfect Stranger “You won’t find a hotel tonight or anytime this week,” he told us. “Lodging is almost impossible with the Miss World Pageant in town.” Then, shockingly enough, he said, “If you have nowhere to stay, you are welcome to spend the night at my house.” The three of us exchanged glances as we considered our alternatives. We were stranded for the night. With nothing to lose, we decided to stick together and accompany him. Our strategy was simple: go to the next town in the morning and try our luck. By now, it was about 7:30 p.m., and darkness had descended. As we followed this man to the parking lot, he pointed to a waiting limousine with a chauffeur standing there. “This is the car,” he said. Wait, what? A limousine? Who was this man? Throughout the journey, he engaged us in conversation, asking about our travels and where we were from. However, he shared little about himself. All we knew was his name: Philipose Matthai. His calmness made us feel at ease, and we soon chatted easily. When we arrived at his home, our jaws sank. It was not just a house but a mansion. His wife graciously greeted us, and a maid took us to our rooms, explaining that supper would be ready in 30 minutes. Mr. Matthai informed us that, while he had to go early for work, we could take our time, have breakfast, and stay for a few days if necessary. He also arranged for his driver to transport us wherever we wanted the following morning. I knew very little about Mr. Philipose Matthai other than that he was the head of the Bangalore Coffee Board. What I do know is that he was a kindhearted and generous man. In our time of need, he opened his home to three strangers. He welcomed us warmly, as if we were family, and exhibited worry about my solo travels around India. And to think, I hadn’t even been in India for 24 hours yet. The following morning, I got up early to catch him before he left for work. “What are your plans?” he inquired. The truth was that I still had no clear plan; I was still trying to take the bus to Goa. “Stay a few more days,” he recommended. “The driver can take you sightseeing in the morning.” Before departing, he handed me his business card and stated, “If you need anything or get into trouble while traveling in India, please do not hesitate to contact me.” After breakfast, the driver took us sightseeing, and by lunchtime, we were at a local restaurant, enjoying a well-earned meal after a morning of exploration.  Kindness Goes a Long Way When we left Mr. Matthai’s home, kindness left a lasting impression. Sometimes, the unexpected moments shape our journey in ways we never anticipate. This remains one of my most cherished solo travel stories—a reminder that the best travel experiences aren’t always planned—they often find you when you least expect them. Next Story: An Unexpected Trip to Puttaparthis   Author and photo credit: Cristy Latest Post All Posts Blog Serendipity in Jaipur: A Journey Back in Time   My Journey Back in Time I took the night bus from Udaipur to Jaipur, leaving behind the city’s shimmering… Jaipur: A City of Temples, Thalis, and Timeless Chaos   Temples, Thalis, and Timeless Chaos When we arrived in Jaipur, the Pink City, it felt like stepping into a… Savoring Jaipur: The Ultimate Rajasthani Thali Experience Exploring Jaipur’s Best Thali Experiences Amid Jaipur’s bustling streets and majestic palaces, the thali custom unites the essence of Rajasthan’s… Daily Turmoil: The Unchanging, Timeless Chaos of Jaipur Despite Jaipur’s advancements, luxury malls, and modern conveniences, Jaipur still clung to its age-old chaos. Crossing the Street Crossing the… When Plans Fall Apart: Embracing the Unknown in India My Unplanned Trip to India I had planned an ambitious trip to five countries with a coworker I barely knew.… Almost Stranded in Bengaluru: An Unexpected Act of Kindness No Hotel Reservations   I landed in Bengaluru at about 6 p.m. and had no hotel reservations for the night.… An Unexpected Trip to Puttaparthi – A Spiritual Curiosity A Detour to Puttaparthi The Australian couple I met last night at Mr. Matthai’s house, Joe and Amy, make an… A Night Train to Bijapur: A Journey of Unexpected Connections Railway Station I ran as fast as I could to the Puttaparthi Railway Station. My first thought was to take… Udaipur: The City of Lakes and Serenity Udaipur, The White City I arrived at Udaipur, the City of Lakes, from the golden deserts of Jaisalmer. The difference… Facebook Instagram

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