A Detour to Puttaparthi

The Australian couple I met last night at Mr. Matthai’s house, Joe and Amy, make an annual journey to Puttaparthi in India. They were Sathya Sai Baba devotees who planned to take the afternoon bus to his ashram.

That morning, we went sightseeing together. I expressed my plans for Goa, but interest in Puttaparthi arose. What kept them coming back year after year? I spontaneously inquired about joining them, vowing to depart if I didn’t find it captivating. And with that conversation, we were on the bus to Puttaparthi!

During the bus ride, they explained Sai Baba’s origins, the ashram, and what I may expect.

Who is Satya Sai Baba?

The renowned spiritual leader of Puttaparthi, Satya Sai Baba, transformed a small village in Andhra Pradesh into a destination where people from around the globe learn about faith and service. Born in 1926, he was believed to possess divine powers. His teachings of love, peace, and selfless service attracted millions. His ashram, Prasanthi Nilayam, became a sanctuary for seekers by offering free medical care, education, and various forms of assistance. Standing out in his orange robe and curly hair, he advocated for unity among different faiths by emphasizing the importance of truth and compassion. Although he passed away in 2011, his legacy inspires people everywhere to love and support one another.

Arriving at Prasanthi Nilayam

Puttaparthi,  125 kilometers northeast of Bengaluru, is home to the ashram Prasanthi Nilayam—”The Abode of Supreme Peace”—and the birthplace of spiritual leader Sathya Sai Baba.

When we arrived at 4 p.m., we were told to prepare for darshan (Satya Sai Baba’s appearance) at 6 p.m. The aroma of sandalwood and incense drifted through the air, mixing with the mumbled prayers of countless followers in the background. Darshan represents an outpouring of pure love. Each person receives this blessing from Sai Baba in a unique way that is beyond human comprehension.

Walking through the ashram gates, I sensed an unearthly calmness in the air. The cold breeze held a peaceful force as if hundreds of prayers had soaked the ground beneath my feet. Prasanthi Nilayam’s architecture was humble, yet it emanated a quiet majesty.

At check-in, I learned that single tourists received different rooms than married couples. That was when I said my goodbyes to Joe and Amy. They had a whole week of activities scheduled at the ashram, and after exchanging addresses, I never saw them again.

Inside the Ashram

The ashram’s arduous standards made me uneasy. Nonetheless, after freshening up, I went to the prayer hall, arriving shortly before 6 p.m.

Thousands of followers filled the large auditorium, all clothed in white and sitting cross-legged with their eyes closed in concentration. A strong sense of yearning filled the air. These people weren’t simply there to watch; they came to experience something.

Then something happened!

When Sathya Sai Baba appeared, the crowd hummed. He moved forward in his distinctive saffron robe, unhurried but purposeful, as if each step held deep significance. Despite being a single man among millions, he appeared to see everyone, acknowledging each soul with a sweeping glance.

I’d never seen anything like it in my life. As a Catholic, Sunday Mass did not look like this, and even seeing the Pope at the Vatican didn’t seem this intense. The excitement in the hall was intimidating. I felt as if I had walked into a cult. Everywhere I looked, eyes shone with a nearly trance-like devotion.

As Satya Sai Baba approached the rear of the auditorium, close to where I sat, I felt my breath racing. A silence enveloped me, stretching the moment into infinity. Suddenly, he turned toward me and raised his hand in a small but commanding move.

A weird feeling washed over me, like a silent wave of light, dismissing doubts I wasn’t aware I was harboring.

The entire hall burst into chants. The name Satya Sai Baba echoed and swelled, blending into a single, vibrating buzz. Around me, faces shone with an almost divine light. I felt drawn into a cosmic rhythm, uncertain about my desire to participate.

Then it struck me; I needed to leave.

I rose softly, left the prayer hall, and went directly to my room. In a matter of minutes, I had my backpack thrown over my shoulder and was on my way to the railway station.

As I exited Prasanthi Nilayam, I felt a jumbled mix of amazement, discomfort, and something else I couldn’t quite identify. As a passing visitor unfamiliar with Satya Sai Baba’s teachings, I had visited the ashram out of curiosity. I had no aspirations and no connection to the faith.

However, there was a shift.

I didn’t understand what I’d seen, but I couldn’t deny its impact. A whisper echoed in my mind, reminding me that life was more than simply moving from one place to another—it was about encounters such as these. There are moments when something beyond words prompts you to pause.

I left Puttaparthi without devotion or answers.

But I left with a feeling—a sight of something higher, a peace I had no idea I needed.

Changing Course

My original plan was simple: ride the next available bus to Goa. I could have gone through with it. But something inside me drew me in a different direction.

The journey expanded beyond simply determining my destination. It was about allowing the journey to unfold as it desired.

And so, I let go of my plans and prepared for whatever adventure lay ahead.

Off to the railway station.

No Photos from Puttaparthi

Photography was strictly prohibited inside the ashram, so I have no pictures to remember my time there. Additionally, my departure from the town was so rushed that I barely had the opportunity to capture any images of the surrounding area. All I have are vivid memories of that fleeting yet impactful experience, preserved only in my mind.

Author and photo credit: Cristy