
A Gathering Like No Other The Maha Kumbh Mela is one of the most significant cultural festivals in the...
The phrase ‘The Big Five’ originally referred to the difficulty of hunting the lion, leopard, rhino, elephant, and buffalo on foot in Africa. These five large African mammals were known to be dangerous, and trophy hunters considered it a feat to bring them home.
Our Kenyan safari promises the thrill of encountering some of the planet’s most magnificent wildlife. Many people’s ultimate safari goal is to spot the Big Five!
Kenya’s untamed landscapes and the Masai Mara’s rolling savannahs provide the perfect backdrop for these beautiful creatures. Each game drive hopes to witness these majestic creatures in their natural habitats, showcasing the raw beauty and power of the African wilderness.
Africa has a treasure found nowhere else in the world. The Big Five can only be found in these African countries: Angola, Botswana, the Democratic Republic of Congo, Ethiopia, Kenya, Malawi, Namibia, Rwanda, South Africa, Tanzania, Uganda, Zambia, and Zimbabwe.
“Everything in Africa bites, but the safari bug is the worst of all.” Brian Jackman
The Cape buffalo is sometimes called the “mafia of the bush.” Known for their tendency to take revenge when provoked, they have been known to circle back, stalk, and even attack or kill hunters. Talk about the hunter becoming the hunted!
Observing the Cape Buffalo from afar, they appear to be tame and calm. But do not let the look fool you! Our guide, Steve, shared some crucial survival advice in case of a cape buffalo attack. He told us that if we ever find ourselves in such a dangerous situation, we have two options: run to a tree and climb it, or lie on the ground and pretend to be dead.
Steve recounted a harrowing story to illustrate his point. He mentioned that a buffalo once attacked one of his friends. Quickly, his friend decided to lie down and pretend to be dead, hoping the buffalo would lose interest. The buffalo approached with its notoriously rough tongue and began licking his friend’s head. The licking was so intense that it removed hair from his head. It was an excruciating and nerve-wracking experience for his friend, but it ultimately saved his life, as the buffalo eventually lost interest and wandered away.
Steve emphasized that buffalo might look calm and unthreatening from a distance, but they are among the most dangerous animals in the African savannah. They are highly unpredictable and can become aggressive without warning. Their sheer size, strength, and tendency to hold grudges make them formidable opponents.
Steve’s story served as a forceful reminder of the risks involved in encountering these powerful creatures and the importance of being prepared for any situation while on safari.
Why do Cape buffaloes often have birds on their backs? African buffaloes have a symbiotic relationship that benefits both the buffalo and the birds. The birds feed on the ticks and parasites in the buffalo. This arrangement is good for the buffalo because these parasites suck a lot of blood and can weaken the animal. That is why buffaloes are delighted to keep the company of birds, and the birds are equally pleased to help!
We had the rare and extraordinary experience of spotting a black rhino in Masai Mara. During our visit, this sighting had eluded safari visitors for the past three months! Steve and the rest of the guides we met the following morning were ecstatic and shared the significance of our encounter.
Black rhinos are the rarest among the African Big Five in Masai Mara. It was believed Mara had only four of the Big Five until recently, when black rhinos were sighted again at the reserve. Black rhinos are critically endangered and notoriously elusive, making sightings rare.
Steve explained that seeing a black rhino in the wild is an exceptional event at Masai Mara due to their solitary nature and shrinking population. Over the past few months, despite numerous safari expeditions and diligent tracking by rangers and guides, no one has reported a sighting. The black rhino’s disappearance had been a concern, sparking conversations about their movements and behavior within the reserve.
As we drove through the Savannah and finished this game drive in the early evening, Steve’s keen eyes caught sight of something. He also wondered why a few trucks had gathered on the horizon. He wanted to check it out, and as we got closer, he motioned for us to be silent and still. The majestic black rhino stood in the distance, its figure partially hidden by the vegetation.
With its distinct hooked lip and formidable horn, the black rhino was grazing peacefully, oblivious to the stir it was causing among its human observers. Its leathery skin, scarred by the trials of the wild, twinkled under the sun’s rays. We watched in awe as the rhino moved gracefully, its massive frame effortlessly navigating the savannah.
Steve whispered about the importance of this sighting, highlighting the ongoing conservation efforts aimed at protecting these magnificent creatures. The black rhino’s elusive presence was a testament to the conservation challenges and the wildlife’s resilience. Despite the threats of poaching and habitat loss, this lone rhino symbolized hope and perseverance.
We stood in silence, mesmerized, watching the rhino in awe. As the sun started to set, most of the cars started to leave. When just a handful of cars remained, Steve took us closer to get a clearer glimpse of the rhino enjoying its evening grazing. After watching the majestic rhino for what felt like hours and taking hundreds of photographs, the twilight light was beginning to fade, and we decided it was best to head back, leaving the rhino peacefully grazing alone now.
The significance of that day’s sighting stayed with us long after the safari. It was a powerful reminder of the fragile beauty of the natural world and the need to protect and preserve it. For the rest of our safari, the memory of the black rhino was a constant source of wonder and inspiration, one of the highlights of our Mara adventure that we would cherish forever!
The two species of rhinoceros native to Africa are the black and white rhino. The names “black” and “white” rhinos are misleading, as both are gray. A noticeable physical difference is in the shape of their mouths. The black rhino has a pointed lip, whereas the white rhino has wide/square lips. The white rhino is classified as ‘near threatened,’ with 15,942 individuals in the wild, whereas the greater one-horned rhino is currently vulnerable, with 4,014 individuals in the wild. There are only 35–50 black rhinos in the Masai Mara at any time (many also traverse into the Serengeti).
“You know you are alive when you live among lions.” – Karen Blixen
Lions are often called the king of the jungle or the king of the beasts. They are one of Africa’s most well-known wild animals and most respected predators.
“Until the lion tells his side of the story, the tale of the hunt will always glorify the hunter.” Zimbabwean proverb
During our trip to Africa, we saw at least 25 lions at Masai Mara and Mara Naboisho Conservancy, and we came close to spotting 40 lions, lionesses, and cubs between different parks!
Our first lion sighting was on an early game drive in the heart of the Mara savannah, where a magnificent lion lounged in the golden morning sun. The vast grasslands stretched out around him, a sea of green and gold rippling gently in the breeze. As he reclined on a slight rise, he sunbathed his coat in warm light, highlighting the rich hues of his mane.
Occasionally, he lifted his head to feel the full embrace of the breeze on his face, his eyes closing for what must have been sheer enjoyment. The sun warms his body; the wind cools his face, creating a perfect harmony of nature’s elements.
Another sighting of a lion was on a game drive in Naboisho. A lone lion moved purposefully through the tall grasses, his golden mane catching the morning sun’s light. His amber eyes were sharp and focused, scanning the horizon for any sign of his lioness and cub, searching for a specific, familiar scent that would lead him to his family.
The lion would occasionally pause, his powerful silhouette outlined against the vibrant colors of the African sunrise. He lifted his head and let out a deep, resonant roar that echoed across the plains—a call that felt both like a declaration of his presence and a signal to his family. The savannah, momentarily quiet in response, appears to pause its breathing.
As he listened intently, his ears perked up, catching the faintest swoosh of movement in the distance. He was determined as he journeyed to find his lions and cubs. He knows they could not have wandered far, and his instincts guide him toward a familiar grove where they often rest. He let out another softer call, this time filled with reassurance. As he continued to push through, he finally spotted his lioness and her cubs beside her. Our guide, Steve, suggested that the lion chase the lioness and cub (since the cub was older) as a game. We drove around this stretch of land to see if we could catch them running. They didn’t, so we returned to the other side and watched them meet peacefully. After some time, they all disappeared into the bush together.
Another morning, a pride of lionesses and cubs comes to life with playful energy. The sun, beginning to rise, casts a soft golden glow over the landscape, creating a vibrant backdrop for the cubs’ morning activities. The pride, a mix of lionesses and exuberant cubs, gathers in a clearing where the grass is dewy and cool. Full of boundless energy, the cubs are the first to engage in play. They pounce, stretch, and tumble over each other, their tiny roars of excitement filling the air. Their playful antics are a practice for future skills and a joyous expression of their youth.
We saw another pride: two lions with their lionesses and cubs. Our guide told us these two lions are brothers, and they like to fight. They were both very old. One of the lions exited the bush and started walking slowly towards our truck. He stopped next to me. If I stuck my arm out, I could have touched the lion; that’s how close he was to me!
As the lion remains within reach, his brother unexpectedly rushes towards him. Then they started attacking each other—I screamed, and everyone lost a chance to capture the Nat Geo photo of the year—a lion fight! Fear gripped me as they roared and growled, engaging in combat just a few inches away from me. They were still close enough that I could reach out and touch their faces. The brothers continue to fight side by side, their eyes filled with mixed anger and determination. The fight was a display of raw, primal power. As the adrenaline fades, the brothers separate, each limping slightly.
“In the eyes of a lion, there lies the wisdom of the ages, a gaze that pierces the soul and reminds us of the untamed essence that resides within us all.” – Unknown
The younger lion moved away from our truck. His face has a few scratches and blood near his eyes. The fight has ended, but it was so close and intense that it left us with profound respect for these magnificent creatures’ raw power!
A group of male lions is called a coalition. They are not members of the pride, as most would believe. The coalition can dominate and most often does dominate more than one pride. They will move from pride to pride. When a male lion reaches about three years of age, his pride will force him out. Lionesses will often synchronize their breeding so they will have cubs around the same time. She will also suckle other cubs within the pride. If a coalition of lions takes over a new pride and they have cubs and sub-adult cubs not yet old enough to breed, the male lions will often kill the cubs to bring lionesses into estrus so they can breed and pass on their genes.
“They say an elephant never forgets. What they don’t tell you is that you never forget an elephant.” Bill Murray
On another beautiful morning in the sprawling expanse of the African savannah, we spotted a baby elephant seemingly lost and separated from his family. For this story, I will call him “Tembo.” ‘Tembo’ is a Swahili word for elephant. The early morning sun, slowly rising, cast long shadows across the landscape; hot air balloons started to rise for their tours; and the cold air was filled with the sounds of wildlife stirring to life. Tembo probably strayed too far during a night of foraging and now felt unfamiliar pangs of fear, his vulnerability palpable.
He was running with a sense of urgency and panic, his massive feet thundering across the ground and sending dust clouds. His trunk rose high, and he loudly trumpeted a desperate call for his family. The sound echoed through the savannah, a plaintive cry that carried far and wide. He stopped momentarily and listened for a response, but the silence that followed was deafening. His longing for his family, aching and raw, resonated with those who heard his call.
Unfazed, he continued, his senses sharpened. He moved swiftly, navigating open plains, his massive feet leaving deep imprints in the soft earth. The sun climbed higher, casting a golden hue over the landscape as Tembo’s trumpeting grew more frequent. He was worn out; his legs ached, but he knew he had to keep going.
In the distance, Tembo spotted a herd of elephants, and we can see he was excited during his approach, and his heart leaped with hope. Could this be his family? He raced toward them, his eyes scanning the familiar shapes for the comforting presence of his mother and siblings. The first herd of elephants he encountered as he drew closer was not his family. They largely ignored him, one of whom may have been the matriarch, who seemed to acknowledge and understand but gently nudged him away. Tembo continued to run and trumpet loudly, longing to find his family again.
Tembo set off once more, his trumpeting calls resonating through the air. The sun was higher in the sky, and the hot air balloons reached their cruising altitude. The sun breaks full over the horizon, spreading a warm, golden glow through the savannah. Tembo is moving even though it is starting to warm up. As he crossed a dusty road and we continued to follow him, his ears perked up at some distant sound. At this point, we decided to leave Tembo and continue with our game drive. We had followed him for an hour, and now it was time for us to move on and explore.
As we continued to drive, we eventually encountered a herd of elephants crossing the road. They took their time, enjoying the tall grass on both sides of the road. But one elephant in particular—the oldest one, we believe, was the Matriarch—seemed to linger and look off beyond us in the direction we came from—the direction of Tembo.
Elephants communicate with low hums (low-frequency rumbles). This deep, low-pitched hum traveled vast distances, allowing the elephants to stay in touch even when miles apart. Observing the subtle movements and gestures accompanying these sounds was fascinating, as if they were in a complex and intimate conversation. Steve invited us to listen as closely as possible because the matriarch appeared to communicate over a longer distance while the herd wandered in another direction. She kept her head pointed that way. We believe this was Tembo’s family.
The herd’s matriarch seemed to lead the dialogue with her wise and gentle demeanor. Occasionally, she would pause, lift her trunk, and emit a soft rumble that resonated through the group. Witnessing these majestic creatures’ intricate social bonds and sophisticated communication skills was beautiful.
Witnessing this silent conversation, we felt deeply connected to the natural world. This experience was another highlight of our safari, adding a profound dimension to our understanding of these gentle giants. It reminded us that there is so much more to wildlife than meets the eye and that every encounter in the wilderness holds a story waiting to be discovered.
“Kenya: All good things are wild and free.” – Unknown
Elephants are typically gray, but their natural color is grayish black. They often appear to be the same color as the soil where they live. This is because elephants love to take frequent mud baths or dust with soil to protect against insects, control body temperature, condition and moisturize the skin, and protect against sunburn.
Leopards are among the stealthiest wild animals, and their highly solitary nature makes seeing them in the wild on a safari extremely rare.
On our first and second game drives, we saw four of the Big Five. We still have four game drives left, and the goal is to spot the elusive leopard!
Our first game drive yielded no sightings.
On the second game drive, we ventured deeper into leopard territory, but after many hours of driving, we ended up with a flat tire right in the heart of their domain. This was the only time we were allowed to be outside the car. Steve, our guide, pierced the twilight silence by changing the tire. On the other side was a clearing with a small rift in the ground. A curious hyena was on the horizon, probably assessing whether we might become its next meal.
We had only two game drives left, and I was determined to see the leopard.
Upon our return to the lodge that evening, we learned that a scheduling conflict had forced Steve to step down as our guide. I was upset, as Steve was determined to spot the leopard for us, and we had two more game drives left! The lodge manager assisted us in strategizing our next steps and assured us she would do her best to ensure we saw a leopard before returning home.
She had arranged a night drive and given us a new guide and a spotter, with only one goal: to spot the leopard! That evening, we drove through the darkness for hours; the headlights and infrared turned on when checking the bushes. Suddenly, the spotter exclaimed, “There!”
We strained our eyes but couldn’t see anything in the pitch-black night. He insisted the leopard was there, pointing his infrared light at a tree. Excited by the prospect of spotting the leopard, we proceeded forward, slowly moving through the mud. Finally, we saw the leopard resting, draped over a branch. As we eagerly snapped photos, our safari vehicle became entangled in the mud! Our driver spent a few minutes figuring out how deep we were and how to get the truck out of the mud.
The commotion woke the leopard, who gracefully descended the tree. While we awaited assistance from another truck, the leopard observed us for some time before slowly vanishing into the bush.
Leopard spots are called rosettes because they resemble the shape of a rose flower. The rosettes help the leopard blend into the environment.
“To truly understand Africa, you must go beyond the tourist trails and venture into the heart of the wilderness. It’s in the quiet moments, observing the animals in their natural habitats, that the continent reveals its secrets.” – Unknown.
Author: Cristy
Photo Credit: Nathan
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