Africa

Namibia is a land of incredible contrasts, from towering sand dunes to rugged mountain ranges, vast savannah plains to dramatic coastlines. It is a land of breathtaking natural beauty and diverse wildlife. However, it can be challenging, especially for travelers whose idea of a vacation is dashing from one sight to another or those who need regular fixes of bustling cityscapes or fast-paced sightseeing tours.  Namibia demands patience; it is a sparsely populated country. We encounter long stretches of road with nothing in sight and little or no service. It is imperative to plan your route, carry enough fuel, have plenty of water and snacks, and prepare for the considerable distances between towns. Our road trip in Namibia involved many rough, unpaved gravel roads that required careful navigation. Take an SUV or a 4×4 to explore remote areas or tackle challenging terrain. We got stuck with Jimny!  I was terrified to see our rental, a Suzuki Jimny, for the first time. What is this? I can’t drive this clunky Jeep-like thing! However, the other SUV choices were much larger and heavier to operate, not to mention vastly more expensive. And they told us that my 22-year-old son, Nathan, could not drive a rental in Namibia. After discussing the Jimny situation with the manager and Nathan, we decided that driving Jimny was the only option and that I would be the driver the entire time.  So, I did all the driving. It was quite a bit of driving! We started the trip in Windhoek, the capital city of Namibia. Then, we drove north to Etosha National Park. Then, we drove southwest to Swakopmund on the coast, Sesriem to Sossusvlei, and Keetmanshoop before ending in Windhoek. And there were plenty of stops along the way! Namibia is home to diverse wildlife; we encountered many animals on the roads, including many exotic animals. Be cautious, particularly during dawn and dusk, when animals are more active. It is advisable not to drive when it is dark—and it is more likely than not a violation of your rental policy and insurance. Follow the rules, and you will be safe. At times, Nathan would fall asleep. He was my GPS on this road trip! I wanted him to be awake to tell me if we were close to our next exit or if I might miss it in these vast stretches of land! Occasionally, I would yell, Hey Nathan, “LOOK, a different kind of nothingness!” The harsh landscape would shift from barren scrubland to giant rocks that looked like God had forgotten to straighten them. Yet something is mesmerizing about the isolation of this place that you will miss if you bop across the country by air.  As our clunky Jimny navigated the unpaved gravel road, the crunching of the gravel beneath its tires created a rough and hearty noise. The suspension system was tested repeatedly as the vehicle jolted and bounced over uneven terrain in windy conditions, making the drive feel like an off-road adventure. Jimny’s engine roared with determination, powering through the difficulties in its path. I gripped the steering wheel with so much force, feeling the vibrations from the road and the sound of my pounding heart.  As Jimny maneuvers through the terrain’s twists and turns, the suspension creaks and groans, desperately adapting to the unpredictable landscape, leaving a trail of adventure behind. Jimny’s design became apparent in its ability to tackle the unpaved road with gusto. The poor Jimny needed help throughout the drive, particularly on the rocky, unpaved gravel roads, where more traction would have been excellent.  Namibia may not be your destination if you cannot live without an internet connection. The e-sim we purchased did not work because our 5G data was incompatible with their 3G infrastructure—an issue that others using the same e-sim had documented online. Even if it had worked, we had weak or no connection most of the time, especially on the road. We carried a satellite phone for emergencies. Our GPS and navigation systems were nearly useless except for our first preloaded directions of the day at our accommodations. Luckily, we packed a paper map of Namibia and planned our routes at home.  The silver lining is that we are unplugged from the real world, which is sometimes a scary feeling these days! Driving etiquette and rules differ from those in the United States. They drive on the left side of the road and move to the right lane when passing. Always turn the lights on when on the road, even during the day, or you will see flashing high-beam lights from cars coming your way. I am constantly reminded of this, as I often forget to turn on the headlights! On the last stretch of the drive to Windhoek to return the car, Jimny struggles to accelerate on the mountain pass, especially on steep inclines. As I painfully try to get past the first steep incline, it quickly becomes evident that Jimny needs more power to climb the slope efficiently. The car’s speed drops significantly. What used to be a comfortable cruising pace on flat terrain now turns into a slow, arduous crawl up the steep grades. The winding road continues with tight turns and hairpin bends, and every kilometer requires me to brake and then carefully accelerate again, a task that becomes increasingly difficult for Jimny and me. The lightness of the Jimny makes it feel like we are getting blown away, and I have to drive even slower.  My anxiety had built up, and my struggles were real, telling Nathan I couldn’t do this. I gripped the steering wheel with all my might, my heart pounding and my hands sweating, on our ascent at every kilometer. When we reached the higher elevation, the fierce wind grew increasingly relentless. As the gust battered our jeep and swayed, I continued to panic. I held onto the wheel tightly, struggling to keep the jeep on course as the howling wind forced me to slow down to

Adventure Drive to Swakopmund: 4Wheeling in the Sand Dunes The drive from Etosha National Park to Swakopmund offers a fascinating transition from the arid savannah landscapes to the coastal desert towards the Atlantic Ocean. This drive covers a considerable 500 kilometers. The drive was arduous, and we were the only cars on the road for hours. The landscape changes dramatically along the way. The Jimny keeps chugging along, and the rugged wheels of the Jimny grip Namibia’s endless gravel road. The horizon stretches further than you can see, but the drive continues to captivate and inspire. As we venture southwest, the terrain gradually transforms into a scene of rugged mountains and dramatic rock formations. The never-ending gravel road stretches ahead, cutting through the heart of the Namib Desert, where the shifting sands create an ever-changing mosaic of dunes and shadows. The only sound in the eerie silence of the desert’s vastness is the soft hum of the Jimny tires on the gravel. We tried to find local radio stations, saving our phone batteries, but only found deafeningly unexpected American music on the radio; it was Bruno Mars’s song, ‘Grenade.’ Approaching Swakopmund, the distant sound of the Atlantic Ocean becomes a soothing melody, and the temperature drops nicely, signaling the proximity to the coast. The landscape undergoes another metamorphosis as the dunes give way to the seaside town’s cool breezes and misty air. Swakopmund emerges on the horizon with its colonial architecture and palm-line streets, a refreshing oasis between the desert and the Atlantic Ocean. Desert Breeze is our Swakopmund home, offering an uninterrupted view of the ancient Namib desert. The resort is a short drive from central Swakopmund. Its position above the Swakop River overlooks the apricot dune sea and offers the ultimate desert experience.  One of the world’s oldest deserts, the Namib Desert, meets the Atlantic Ocean in northern Namibia. Namib translates to “vast place,” a suitable description for the miles of beach and dunes this collision stretches along. During our stay in Swakop, we hired a driver and guide via our accommodations. Our first stop was to see the Zeila ‘shipwreck’ along Namibia’s Skeleton Coast. The Zeila was a fishing trawler sold as scrap metal to an Indian company. On its way to Bombay, India, the fishing vessel became stranded after it came loose from its towing line. The scrapping company decided to forget about it, letting it drift to its final resting place on the coast of Namibia. Then, we drove down to Walvis Bay Lagoon to see the flamingos. The Walvis Bay lagoon is a Ramsar wetland of international importance, providing crucial habitat for a diverse range of bird species, including many flamingos. The flamingos in Walvis Bay are predominantly Greater Flamingos. These elegant birds are known for their distinctive pink plumage, long necks, and characteristic bill shape. The pink colors of the flamingos result from pigments in the food they consume, such as algae and crustaceans, which contain carotenoids. The Namibian coastline is 1,400 kilometers long. There are only two natural harbors, Lüderitz Bay and Walvis Bay; the rest is a barren coast with no fresh water and plenty of fog, appropriately named the “Skeleton Coast.”  The fun began when we started four-wheeling on the high dunes of Sandwich Harbor, where the Namib desert meets the cold waters of the South Atlantic Ocean. We drove on the narrow beach between the dunes and the waves of the Atlantic Ocean. I never thought we would get through these narrows; it was exhilarating! You can only navigate these strips at low tide. At high tide, the ocean reclaims the stretch of beach and eliminates all traces of vehicles. We were lucky; it was a perfect day! The dunes were breathtaking. Our 4×4 went straight down, across, and back up like a rollercoaster. It is an exhilarating and immersive experience that allows us to explore the stunning landscapes, unique ecosystems, and diverse wildlife of one of the world’s oldest deserts. What a wild ride it was! Sandwich Harbour boasts two distinct wetlands and associated mudflats. One is aquifer-fed and supports typical emergent vegetation but is slowly disappearing due to natural causes. Under the tidal influence, the second consists of mudflats and raised shingle bars. Wedged between the sea and the Namib Dunes, it is one of Namibia’s most important coastal wetlands, supporting eight endangered species among many wading birds. We saw the lagoon area from one of the many beautiful lookout spots and had the time to walk and explore. We had lots of time to stop along the way to take pictures.  We climbed the high dunes for a spectacular view of Sandwich Harbor Lagoon. Sand waterfalls are the result of the “cliffs” of sand that the ocean’s high tide waves have created, eroding once more with the sun and wind. High tides can hamper access to the lagoon, but today is a great day.  We saw springbok, ostrich, jackals, and raptors such as Peregrine Falcons, Pale Chanting Goshawks, and Black-breasted Snake Eagles. We passed the remnants of an abandoned town, now buried up to the roof in the sand, with waves washing away any remaining wood structures.  Finally, we found the perfect spot to take a lunch break. Our guide prepared our lunch on a folding table and chairs at the beach. We picked up a box of freshly harvested oysters from Nami Oysters. The oysters are delicious; you can taste the ocean with every bite! Recommendations: The Desert Breeze Resort is one of the best places we stayed in Namibia. Our room had big windows with a fantastic view of the Namib Desert. Our deck overlooks the desert, a path to walk down to the dunes, and across the riverbed to have your sundowner on the dune. The chef deliciously prepared breakfast the next day, which is included with our accommodations. Author: Cristy Photo Credit: Nathan Latest Post All Posts Blog The Story Behind Mi Bella Mondo: Discovering My Beautiful World Read More Mi Bella Mondo