Serendipity in Jaipur: A Journey Back in Time

My Journey Back in Time

I took the night bus from Udaipur to Jaipur, leaving behind the city’s shimmering lakes as we rolled onto the dark highway. The journey was filled with sleep, jolts from bumpy roads, and occasional stops at roadside dhabas (restaurants), where truck drivers huddled around fires, sipping hot chai. Wrapped in a blanket, I slept through the night.

By 10 a.m., I arrived in Jaipur for the first time on a clear, cold winter morning.

Traveling from city to city without plans was the ultimate freedom in experiencing India. I arrived with no reservations or itinerary—just curiosity and a willingness to see where the journey took me.

Some places instantly captivate me, drawing me in with their stories, streets, and unspoken magic. Other areas, while beautiful, don’t resonate in the same way. And that’s the beauty of traveling like this—there’s no pressure, no commitments, just the freedom to wander, explore, and linger where it feels right.

The only plan is to keep moving until something tells me to stop!

Along the way, I encountered numerous people—locals and travelers, mostly backpackers—each adding a narrative to my trip. Some friendships lasted a few hours, others days, and a lifetime. Knowing our paths might never cross again, we ate, laughed, and shared travel stories.

Still, this travel, in its raw form—a never-ending flow of movement and connection—is a testament to the friendliness of human interaction. There were no expectations or tearful goodbyes.

This is the true essence of travel: not following a checklist or a strict schedule but simply being present and allowing the adventure to unfold as it will.

India showed me that the best strategy is sometimes none, even with all its charm and mayhem.

I stepped off the bus with a backpack and no real plan except for a vague idea of finding a place called Evergreen, where I planned to stay while in Jaipur.

Arriving by Bus

Madness started the minute I stepped off the bus in Jaipur. I had grown accustomed to handling conflict and dealing with the locals by now. Touts crowded like bees, yelling over each other and attempting to sell me anything—an autorickshaw ride, a guesthouse, a day trip, anything. It was frightening and unpleasant to deal with early in the morning. But I ignored them!

Evergreen was where backpackers camped—at least, that was a suggestion in the Lonely Planet guidebook! I had heard about it from Elise, a Dutch backpacker I had met earlier on my trip. “Come to Jaipur, and I will be staying at Evergreen,” she had advised. “I’ll introduce you to my friends!” But I knew she had probably left by now; weeks had passed since I last saw her.

On my way to Evergreen, I spotted Elise as I wandered the labyrinth of streets, avoiding rickshaws and street merchants. She came toward me with effortless elegance. “You made it!” she remarked. “I will see you later at Evergreen.”

I recall little about my first visit to Jaipur.

Not how one remembers sites or an itinerary. I remember emotions. I remember walking around the Pink City and feeling the sandstone buildings sparkle in the midday sun. Entering the bazaars, the air smells earthy from the streets, mixed with spices, tea, and incense. I remember sitting in Evergreen’s courtyard, surrounded by backpackers, sharing stories of our travels through India.

When Elise returned to Evergreen, she introduced me to her friends. I remember meeting GD and Fahim first, then Sunny and Bobby later. While Fahim was quiet and focused, GD was friendly and bursting with stories. We talked about travel, Jaipur, and life itself.

Looking back, I remember the feeling—especially with Bobby—but not many specifics of what happened. There was something more profound than words, an unconscious connection that existed. On that journey, I never anticipated more than fleeting friendships; nevertheless, life had other plans, showing me the beauty of unexpected connections.

This is My Story of India!

An accurate tale of eating, praying, and finding love when you least expected it. What began as an uncertain journey, with no clear plan and only an open heart filled with adventure, led me to something far greater than I could have imagined.

India was more than just a place I visited; it became a pivotal moment in my life. At the time, I didn’t realize the significance of the connection. It was effortless and natural—two strangers brought together by fate in a city with two million people (1996). Something deeper took root in a whirlwind of shared stories, late-night conversations, and spontaneous adventures. Less than a year later, Bobby and I were married, and what started as a chance encounter became the foundation of a lifetime together, a testament to the transformative power of travel.

And now, almost 28 years later, we are still together. Through every high and low, every twist and turn, that moment in India remains the beginning of a story that never stopped unfolding. What was once a leap of faith turned into a lifetime of love—

Proving that the most unexpected journeys sometimes lead us exactly where we are meant to be.

Since that first visit, I have returned to Jaipur several times, but those trips were different. We centered our trips around family, bringing our kids to visit family and sharing glimpses of the city. Those visits evoked feelings of nostalgia and responsibility, a stark contrast to the carefree wandering of my early travels.

Neal’s first visit to India at 6 months old.

With Neal and Nathan in 2007.

Chai drinkers in training!

Now, 17 years later, I am back again. This time, it’s different. There are no obligations and no hurried schedules. My husband and I are rediscovering Jaipur together, walking through its bustling streets and taking in its chaos and charm. The city has changed—grown and modernized—but it remains the same in many ways.