The Golden City

Rajasthan is a land of contrasts, with each city uniquely expressing the Thar Desert’s vast and changing landscape.

My journey began in Jaisalmer, the Golden City, with sandstone towers rising against a gorgeous azure sky. The appeal of camel camping had built a beautiful picture of a quiet night under the desert sky. The truth was far less idyllic.

The Lonely Planet Guidebook describes Jaisalmer as a golden sand mirage, with an ancient fortification gleaming in the desert light.

For any visitor to Rajasthan, a camel ride in the vast Thar Desert and a night under the stars seemed like must-see events. So, despite my reservations, I signed up for only a one-night camel camping trip, believing it would be an adventure worth having.

Camel Camping Trip

In the late afternoon, our tiny group went from the city’s edge, wobbling atop a camel caravan. Jay and Kate, American travelers touring India, were among the group. We connected over mutual misery and hilarity as our camels stubbornly refused to be steered. We shared travel experiences over steaming cups of chai while our guides cooked a simple lunch of chapatis and dal.

Before us spread an unending desert, interrupted by parched plants and rippling dunes. My camel muttered with each step as if it represented the land’s stubbornness. He smelled like fermented hay and an old, damp carpet, snorting and spewing foul odors. The steady, repetitive rocking initially felt meditative, but my legs yearned for a break after an hour!

Camel Break!

We stopped on a dune just as the sun dipped below the horizon, illuminating the desert in rich golden orange.

Our experienced desert traveler guides started a fire and prepared tea before cooking a basic supper of chapatis and dal.

The silence was profound—there were no honking automobiles, no city buzz, just the whisper of wind moving grains of sand.

Then, the temperature plummeted quickly.

The arid night ate up every ounce of the day’s warmth. Wrapped in a small blanket, I huddled near the fire, watching steam rise from our food and fill the cool night air. Above us, the endless sky twinkled with stars brighter than I’d ever seen. However, the beauty of the event was overwhelmed by the bitter cold. I huddled inside my sleeping bag, which was insufficient for the desert chill. Sleep remained elusive, robbed by the cold air and the odd guttural sigh of adjacent camels.

The morning came as a great respite. With stiff limbs, I gripped a hot cup of chai, letting the first rays of sunlight thaw my cold bones. The encounter had been simultaneously raw, beautiful, and uncomfortable. When I returned to town, I deeply respected the desert’s harsh beauty and was unmistakably grateful for the comfort of a comfortable bed. The others decided to spend another night. On the other hand, I learned a valuable lesson. Next time, I’d view the desert from a rooftop patio, chai in hand, and no camels in sight.

After leaving Jaisalmer, I would meet Jay and Kate through Rajasthan, visiting Udaipur and Jaipur. By the time we left, I felt our friendship would endure beyond this trip.

Jay and Kate flew to California a year later to attend my wedding. As we reminisced about our trip through Rajasthan, we realized that travel uniquely fosters profound and lasting friendships. What began as a casual encounter on a camel ride in Jaisalmer had evolved into a lifelong bond.

Next Stop: The White City, Udaipur

Author and photo credit: Cristy
NOTE: All photos were taken on a Canon A2 with Ilford slide film.