Meeting the Shajare Family
An Hour That Changed Everything!
This was my second attempt to see the gorillas. My first try had been cut short when I caught a cold. One of the strict rules is that if you show any signs of illness, you can’t go on the trek. So when I finally got my chance, the anticipation was even greater.
All trekkers meet at the Bwindi gate early in the morning, usually around 7:00-7:30 AM. We were welcomed with a traditional song and dance, a joyful reminder that this experience isn’t just about the gorillas; it’s about the people who protect them. After the performance, a Uganda Wildlife Authority ranger gathered everyone for a briefing, going over the dos and don’ts: stay quiet, keep your distance, no flash photography, and wear your mask. Then we met our team: our guide, trackers, and the armed rangers who would accompany us, for a quick huddle before starting our journey.
We drove for about 45 minutes on bumpy African roads (African massage, as they call it!) to reach the starting point. In terms of distance, it was only three miles, but on those roads, time feels different. When we arrived, the real journey started!
The first part of the hike was pretty easy—about an hour of steady walking until we reached a wooden bridge crossing a river. That river is the boundary. On one side, the village. On the other side, the forest. Once you cross it, you’re officially in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest!
And then everything changed.
The trek became relentless—steep switchbacks, muddy slopes, and thick vegetation that seemed determined to slow us down. For another hour or so, we pushed uphill through Bwindi’s Impenetrable Forest, with the terrain growing more challenging with each step. But finally, the trackers who had been following the Shajare family since dawn signaled that we were close.
We put on our masks, left our belongings with the porters, and followed the trackers off the main trail. This is when you truly realize why it’s called the Impenetrable Forest. The vegetation is so thick that a person with a machete leads the way, clearing a path as we move. You duck under branches, step over roots, and push through leaves taller than you are.
And then, suddenly, they appear!
Seven Gorillas in a Clearing (Plus a glimpse of a mom and her newborn!)
We were tracking the Shajare family, one of the newest habituated gorilla groups in Bwindi. When we reached a small clearing—shaped over time by these gentle giants—seven gorillas waited for us. They didn’t arrive all at once. They emerged from the undergrowth one by one, as if deciding in their own time whether to welcome us.
Deep in the dense brush, we saw two more: a mother and her tiny newborn. She shielded her baby with her body, opting for privacy, and our guides fully respected that space.
Then the silverback appeared, the dominant male. He looked young, strong, and remarkably composed. At one point, as I tried to photograph him, he dropped his entire body to the ground and began eating, utterly relaxed. Completely unbothered. Completely unfazed by our presence.
The Moment That Stopped Time!
At one point, a gorilla looked directly at me.
His deep, dark brown eyes locked onto mine; steady, curious, impossibly human. For a heartbeat, the entire forest seemed to go silent. It felt as though he was acknowledging me, greeting me in the only language we shared. Part of me even joked that he was searching for a long-lost sister and that he was welcoming me!
The ranger told us it was okay to make eye contact, as long as we looked down if the gorilla showed any sign of feeling threatened. So I held his gaze gently, just for a few seconds. Then he blinked, looked away, and settled back into his world, completely content.
I’m sure he smiled. And yes, I even got a selfie with him.
It’s a moment I will remember forever!
Life in the Forest
The gorillas went about their day as if we weren’t there. They munched on leaves, groomed each other, played, and rested. The forest was quiet except for their soft chewing and the occasional click of our cameras.
I also had the chance to meet Nicholas, one of the rangers who helped habituate the Shajare family. For four years, he came into the forest every day from 8 to 5, caring for them, observing, feeding, playing, and gradually earning their trust. His pride and passion were unmistakable as he shared their stories. He even showed me photos of the gorillas. At the time of habituation, there were eleven members in the family, although they often split into smaller groups, since each family usually has just one silverback.
One Hour with the Gentle Giants
You get one hour with the gorillas. Sixty minutes. It may seem short, but when you’re standing there, surrounded by these fantastic creatures, time feels both endless and fleeting.
Every moment with them was extraordinary. Watching their movements, hearing their breath, and seeing the kindness in their eyes, it’s humbling in a way that’s hard to put into words.
And here’s the thing: it won’t be a once-in-a-lifetime experience for me. I will return. I have to go back. Once you’ve been that close to a mountain gorilla, looked into their eyes, and felt that connection, you’re changed. And you’ll want to experience it again and again!