Udaipur, The White City

I arrived at Udaipur, the City of Lakes, from the golden deserts of Jaisalmer. The difference was striking. Whereas Jaisalmer had been harsh and rugged, Udaipur was delicate, almost ethereal, with its whitewashed palaces and glistening waterways radiating simple grace.

In 1996, Udaipur, the White City, felt ageless. Its appeal was played in tones of light and shadow. I meandered around its small pathways without a clear agenda, photographing events in black and white.

The lack of color accentuated the contrasts—the complex lines of the antique havelis, the deep wrinkles of an old chai vendor observing the world go by, and the graceful shapes of ladies balancing brass pots on their heads.

Best Show in Town

Speaking with delight about Octopussy, the James Bond film made in Udaipur, the locals’ nightly screenings by restaurants and guesthouses reminded guests that Udaipur had hosted cinematic splendor. From my vantage point, I could see what the directors must have seen—a monochromatic masterpiece in which history and daily life melted together in a metropolis of royal palaces floating on peaceful lakes.

Time seems to slow down in Udaipur, and I joyfully yield to its soft flow.

The city’s defining characteristic was its lakes, right at its core. Lake Pichola was expansive and mirror-like, reflecting the magnificence of the palaces around its coast. The Lake Palace, situated near the lake’s center, evoked a fairytale vision.

Udaipur’s evenings exuded pure magic. As evening fell, the city shone softly, its lights swinging in the breeze over rooftop cafés. The distant chime of the temple bells, mixed with the delicate notes of a sitar, created a song around me like a cozy hug. I cradled a cup of tea, discovered a rooftop view of the lake, and watched Udaipur disappear into its glittering mirror.

Next stop: the Pink City of Jaipur!

Author and photo credit: Cristy